# Optical Forums > Ophthalmic Optics >  tinting of 1.67 material

## essegn

I have problems to tint 1.67 material.. We managed to tint 1.6 index material, but after tinting of 1.67 material are on the len's surface some kind of dark maps - like material doesn't absorb the color in some areas. All of tests (about 50 pieces) had the mentioned maps or termal deformation- none of them were acceptable.

We use the turbo tinter and all the colors from company in Florida.. The time for tinting is 5-15 min, at 210-220F.

Where could be the problem? In lens preparation before tinting ? Do exist any special colors for 1.67 material different like to 1.6 material ?

Many thanks

Peter

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## DragonLensmanWV

For the 1.67 index, you might want to lower your temperature by 10 degrees or so.

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## braheem24

You need a backside coater.

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## essegn

> You need a backside coater.


Why do you think that the backside coater need to be employed ? We have the problem with tinting before coating.
So i am not sure for what is backside coater good for? Could you please give me a better explanation ?

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## DragonLensmanWV

The 1.67 material is too soft to be used without a backside hard coat. And as you've noted the material itself does not tint well. By applying a backside hard coat you will do two things:
1. Make them hard enough to be usable and not be scratched by something as easy as being rubbed by eyelashes.
2. You will be tinting the hard coat and you will have much more consistent colors.

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## essegn

> 2. You will be tinting the hard coat and you will have much more consistent colors.


I am a little confused.. If i understand right, it is helpful to use coating to concave side before tinting. But, all of the 1.67 index materials need to have AR coating. Is the right procedure to put lacquer to concave side (engravings will be dissapeared after using of mr3 coater), tint the lens, put the lens to the dip machine and then to the machine for AR coating ?

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## braheem24

A/R works better with a backside coating, lenses tint more and faster with a backside coating.

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## Geirskogul

I used to wear 1.67 lenses. When I bought a new pair I had fun tinting and neutralizing the tint to see what color combinations I could come up with. One of my tints took the hard coating right off, and the base material itself would not tint. At all. Not one bit. Figured out that out sola 1.67s don't take a tint.

We use the BPI powder tablets at 170-210*F

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## Speed

> I used to wear 1.67 lenses. When I bought a new pair I had fun tinting and neutralizing the tint to see what color combinations I could come up with. One of my tints took the hard coating right off, and the base material itself would not tint. At all. Not one bit. Figured out that out sola 1.67s don't take a tint.
> 
> We use the BPI powder tablets at 170-210*F


 You only need to back side coat if you surface the lens.  If your tinter is taking off the coating, the lens was not coated properly.  If your supplier(that coated the lenses) will not replace them, change suppliers to a brand name product.  You will have all kinds of problems with cheapies.

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## Geirskogul

> You only need to back side coat if you surface the lens. If your tinter is taking off the coating, the lens was not coated properly. If your supplier(that coated the lenses) will not replace them, change suppliers to a brand name product. You will have all kinds of problems with cheapies.


I tinted these like 30 times.  I don't blame the lens at all.

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## Speed

> I tinted these like 30 times. I don't blame the lens at all.


I mentioned a couple of things here.  If you are surfacing poly and lenses with 160 index and higher, and not appling hard coat to the surfaced side, you got some problems and are surley losing business.   If you are simply sticking up for your cheapie lens products, then you have been lucky.

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## Geirskogul

You know, this is why I have you on my ignore list.  Why do I even click "view post?"  I said I was tinting my OLD lenses, not my current ones.  I didn't even get them from where I work now.

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## Speed

> You know, this is why I have you on my ignore list. Why do I even click "view post?" I said I was tinting my OLD lenses, not my current ones. I didn't even get them from where I work now. Screw you.


Wow.  Just trying to clarify.  Sorry to offend.

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## Wes

> Wow.  Just trying to clarify.  Sorry to offend.


That makes one of you.

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## hxlens

you have to check the material is MR-7 or Korea material. some company buy the Korea material, the index can be 1.67, but abbe value can not compare with MR-7. Also this material is hard to tint., but price is cheap

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## essegn

We use blanks from LTL (Essilor) or Optiswiss (Zeiss) so i don't think that problem lies in the material. Do you tint 1.67 ?

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## WFruit

> you have to check the material is MR-7 or Korea material. some company buy the Korea material, the index can be 1.67, but abbe value can not compare with MR-7. Also this material is hard to tint., but price is cheap


MR-10 is a much better 1.67 material.

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## hxlens

> MR-10 is a much better 1.67 material.


i don't think all 1.67 lenses are made by MR-10, because MR-7 is regular material for 1.67.
For the regular lenses, 70% company buy from China. CR39,1.56,1.61. CR39 With ppg material. but MR-10, i can say there is no factory to use.
I am a lens supplier in china for many years. 

So Dear WFruit, are you sure MR-10 is the material for 1.67? i am just interesting :-)

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## WFruit

> i don't think all 1.67 lenses are made by MR-10, because MR-7 is regular material for 1.67.
> For the regular lenses, 70% company buy from China. CR39,1.56,1.61. CR39 With ppg material. but MR-10, i can say there is no factory to use.
> I am a lens supplier in china for many years. 
> 
> So Dear WFruit, are you sure MR-10 is the material for 1.67? i am just interesting :-)


 
See here: http://seikoeyewear.com/product.cfm?prodID=7 for information on Seiko's 1.67 MR-10 (specifically near the bottom where it states "More stable, less heat sensitive, easier to process than conventional (MR-7) resin.")

and here: 
http://x-celoptical.com/lesnes_materials.html (specifically the part under high index where it states "MR-10 for example is a 1.67 material which offers a water white clear lens, thinness and material integrity for drill and rimless frames.")

and here: http://youngeroptics.com/highindex_availability.aspx listing the 1.67 MR-10 availability for Younger lenses.

Yes, MR-7 is a 1.67 material.  We can get it here in the US for a VERY low price.  However, MR-10 is also 1.67, and is MUCH better.  

Time to get out of China and see the rest of the world.

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## hxlens

> See here: http://seikoeyewear.com/product.cfm?prodID=7 for information on Seiko's 1.67 MR-10 (specifically near the bottom where it states "More stable, less heat sensitive, easier to process than conventional (MR-7) resin.")
> 
> and here: 
> http://x-celoptical.com/lesnes_materials.html (specifically the part under high index where it states "MR-10 for example is a 1.67 material which offers a water white clear lens, thinness and material integrity for drill and rimless frames.")
> 
> and here: http://youngeroptics.com/highindex_availability.aspx listing the 1.67 MR-10 availability for Younger lenses.
> 
> Yes, MR-7 is a 1.67 material. We can get it here in the US for a VERY low price. However, MR-10 is also 1.67, and is MUCH better. 
> 
> Time to get out of China and see the rest of the world.


 
yes, i see it. thanks


if MR-10, the tintablity is not good as MR-7. so for the topic we discussed tint issue. Mr-7 is better. Mr-10  only Heat
Distortion Temp. is better. but i think, the price MR-10 is much expensive than MR-7.

My personal opinion.

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## Darryl Meister

> i don't think all 1.67 lenses are made by MR-10, because MR-7 is regular material for 1.67... So Dear WFruit, are you sure MR-10 is the material for 1.67? i am just interesting


Both MR-7 and MR-10 are 1.66 (Hg e = 1.67) high-index urethane lens materials from Mitsui Chemicals. The refractive index, Abbe value, and density of these two materials are very similar. Their mechanical properties are also similar. And both should be considered premium lens materials.

MR-7 will have slightly better tintability and slightly greater impact resistance than MR-10. MR-10, on the other hand, will have slightly better heat resistance and slightly better tensile strength than MR-7. The tensile strength of both materials is very high, however, making either an excellent choice for rimless frames. Consequently, neither material is categorically superior to the other; it just depends upon your priorities.

Best regards,
Darryl

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## Chris Ryser

Just wondering.......................has anyone here ever tried the MicroTints on any of the high index lenses?  In my book they tint just about all high index materials to dark shades in 4 to 6 minutes.

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## For-Life

> Just wondering.......................has anyone here ever tried the MicroTints on any of the high index lenses?  In my book they tint just about all high index materials to dark shades in 4 to 6 minutes.


I found it great on 1.5, but with any other material, it was real finicky.

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## Mauro.Airoldi

We colored MR7 (and now MR10) without troubles but first we coat, by dipping, with a colored hard coat. We use too a primer, it solve all the adhesion troubles and the color becam quick.
I suggest 200° F (93°c)  only be carefull on Freeform PAL , you risk to lost lase printing.

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